The area of rainforest we were documenting and working in was Tane’ Olen of Long Setulang; 5,300ha of biodiversity rich primary lowland rainforest in North Kalimantan. Long before the village of Long Setulang set up the village level forestry management board for its longstanding protection, there was constant pressure from developers to purchase huge areas of forest for extracting timber.  Luckily the Dayak people were very determined and were able to protect these incredible forests, and are now developing ways of gaining income from the forest through ecotourism, without damaging the forest or its biodiversity.  

This valleys and mountains of this area of rainforest area are segregated by many rivers, which eventually flows into the celebes Sea. Wading through the various streams and rivers, sometimes up to your waist, you could really sense just how much life lives in these rainforests. From the chatter of birds above in the canopy to the rustling of the undergrowth as insects hunt and were hunted, It was easy to understand why these remaining rainforests need protecting.  

One thing I did learn very quickly once I was deep in the rainforest, up to my waist wading, was don’t buy expensive leather Gore-Tex boots for this kind of expedition. Not only do they weigh a tonne, but they only get heavier once they’re wet inside and will not dry out for the remainder of the expedition. Leather isn’t the most breathable material even with a GTX membrane, so if you ever find yourself in this kind of environment, consider taking non waterproof shoes / boots with a lighter material. They will dry out a lot quicker and be far more breathable! 

The dry season was creeping closer to its end during the expedition, but we were blessed with the majority of our days being rain free. From the point of arriving at basecamp the adjacent river was becoming shallower every day. However, we did have our fair share of rapid storms rolling through. These were easy to predict, as rainforests are generally fairly still and windless environments down in the valleys. The first sign is the sound of the wind blowing through the canopy upwind, and then you know you have around 2 minutes or so before the rain begins. 

All though this weather isn’t great for trekking through the rainforest with lots of expensive camera gear, it is great for spotting wildlife. Due to the density of the canopy and the lack of human presence in these areas, it was particularly difficult to document any mammal or bird species all though we saw plenty of evidence of them, including a skeleton which our guides and wildlife experts suspected to be a type of Civet. The easiest wildlife to spot and document (particularly after the rains) were the many amphibian and reptile species, most of which were more active at night.   

Species we spotted include -  

The triangle keelback (Xenochrophis trianguligerus)

This species of snake is most frequently encountered near forest pools, swamps or streams. Like most keelbacks it leads a semi-aquatic lifestyle and is an excellent swimmer, as I found out one night as one sped past me on the surface. They feed mainly on frogs but also feed on frogs eggs and fish when the opportunity arises.  

The giant river toad or Borneo river toad (Phrynoidis juxtasper)

This species of toad can grow up to 122cm and can be found in both primary and secondary forests, often along rocky creeks and riverbanks. If disturbed they can secrete large amounts of highly toxic, milky poison from their warts when disturbed with even their eggs and tadpoles being poisonous. 

 copper-cheeked frog, white-lipped frog, or Peters' Malaysian frog (Chalcorana raniceps) 

This species of frog inhabits a broad range of lowland primary and secondary rainforest habitats. It breeds in ponds, intermittent streams, and quiet side pools of streams. It's been observed that Males call in small groups from twigs and vegetation up to a whole 1.5 meters off the ground.  

All though it was incredible to trek through this ancient, relatively untouched landscape and observe some of the most resilient wildlife on the planet, It was our duty, as well as our expedition objectives, to build a media database with I.D recordings to enhance the understanding of why this rainforest should be protected and not developed. Therefore, many different media-based studies and projects were undertaken, such as... 

# Studio-based macro photography for detailed images for identification 

# Drone flights to capture geology overviews and canopy density   

# species surveys through camera trapping & mist netting etc 

Alongside this work, we were also there to better understand the Dayak culture, learn their skills in living off the land and their general understanding of their environment. They are incredibly connected with their wildlife and landscape which was really humbling to be part of.  They are natural navigators and can easily find their way through thick forest and are fantastic scramblers. It was fascinating to observe their toes curl to grip onto rocks and logs which indicates how much stronger their bone structure in their feet are compared to westerners, who are put into shoes as soon as we can walk which doesn’t allow our feet to naturally strengthen.  

Towards the end of the expedition, we had the opportunity to spend a night in a fly camp upriver, around 1-2 miles from basecamp.  Fly camps are as wild as they get, with just tarpaulin, sleeping bag, a fire and a mozzie net to protect you from the elements. This was the true meaning of wild camping and it was a real eye opener accompanying the guides while they went fishing further upstream. We spent the rest of the day around the camp fire preparing what the guides and our local wildlife students had collected for dinner. There's nothing quite like falling asleep on a full stomach, rain hitting the tarpaulin and the fire cracking in the background.